Active ingredients in skincare – what they are and how to use them.

When purchasing skincare products, you may have noticed that some products draw your attention by having a specific claim – anti-aging, anti-acne, brighten, tighten, firm – the list goes on and on. These claims are able to be used because of the active ingredients used in the product formulation. You may have heard this term, it is used A LOT when talking about skincare products and their effectiveness. But, what exactly does it mean for an ingredient to be active, and how do you know what active ingredients will be beneficial (or detrimental) in your routine? Let’s talk about it!

Active ingredients are different from other ingredients in your products because they are proven by science to chemically change your skin. They typically require lots of scientific research to be approved and have a very specific concentration that’s allowed to be in a product. These ingredients are what help people see actual results in their skincare; but, if they’re not used correctly, they can also have not so good effects and potentially make your skin worse. 

You can think of product formulation like picking out a cute outfit: 

First, you need a top, bottom, and shoes to provide a base for the outfit (these are your inactive ingredients – maybe not the stars of the show, but still very necessary in every product).

Next, you put something on to make your outfit a little different. Whether it’s a cute jacket, colorful sweater, or fun pair of shoes, this gives the outfit character and allows it to stand out from your other outfits. (these are the active ingredients – each one will give a product its purpose for what it can do and be marketed as). 

Finally, accessorize! Make the outfit fun with a cute purse, bold jewelry, or matching hat. (This is the fun, but not completely necessary, part of skincare – think of your fragrances and little packaging nuances).

That second step of picking out your outfit is KEY! Just like an ugly sweater could completely ruin your outfit, use of an active ingredient where it’s not needed could totally ruin a product. You also want to make sure your outfit sets a vibe that matches your personality or fashion sense, just like you want to make sure an active ingredient matches your skin’s unique needs. You might not wear a jacket that your friend totally loves, just like your skin might hate a product that others swear by. This all comes down to what active ingredients are at play. 

Now that you know a little more about what active ingredients actually are, we’re gonna look at the most common ones in skincare, what they do & how they work, and how to know which ones to use/not use on your skin.

Hyaluronic Acid

Starting off pretty basic, hyaluronic acid is a SUPER common ingredient in so many skincare products, especially moisturizers and serums that claim to “hydrate” the skin. This ingredient is a superstar at retaining water – a quarter teaspoon can hold around 1.5 gallons of water! (1- Cleveland Clinic 2022). This means it is able to draw water into your skin from the environment and keep it there, keeping the skin hydrated longer. This can also reduce fine lines in the skin that occur naturally with aging from chronic skin dryness. 

What’s also nice about hyaluronic acid, especially in comparison to some of the other active ingredients we’ll discuss – is that it is very uncommon for people to experience adverse side effects or skin sensitization. Since a small amount works so effectively, ingredients do not need to contain a super high concentration of this ingredient for it to have those hydrating effects. 

Given its properties, hyaluronic acid is best for people with dry, combination, or normal skin textures, as well as those hoping to battle age-induced skin dryness resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin C / ascorbic acid

Another super common ingredient is Vitamin C, which is one of the most effective antioxidants – meaning it fights off harmful free radicals in the environment that may damage your skin. Air pollution, diet choices, cigarette smoke, UV radiation, and pesticides are all free radicals that you may encounter daily and could harm your skin. Not to get too scientific, but the ingredient lends these free radical electrons that they bind to, instead of binding to your skin and causing damage. Free radicals can also accelerate the aging process, meaning Vitamin C’s defense also gives it anti-aging effects. Studies have also shown increased sun protection when Vitamin C and sunscreen are used in combination, meaning this is a great ingredient for a morning skincare routine. 

Apart from this, Vitamin C has also been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation and undereye circles. So many benefits!

Unlike hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C is a little more risky for people with sensitive skin and could increase skin redness and dryness. This is typically an indication that you are using too much, and it is recommended to try a product with a lower Vitamin C concentration for first-time users or users with sensitive skin. Regardless, any skin type can use Vitamin C, and its benefits suggest that it might be a staple in any solid skincare routine. It is also important to look for non-clear bottles when buying products with Vitamin C, as the ingredient is very sensitive to heat and light and may lose its effects or even induce skin sensitivity if stored improperly . 

(2 – Cleveland Clinic 2022)

Niacinamide

This ingredient I see as a good all-around staple. It is a form of Vitamin B3 that helps build keratin, which is a super foundational protein for maintaining skin health. You may have seen keratin supplements advertised as hair, skin, and nail health, and this is exactly true. In the skin, keratin composes the outer layer and works as a protective protein to keep the skin strong, healthy, and bright. Niacinamide can be thought of as nutrients for your skin. 

With its keratin-building properties, the ingredient has been shown to boost function of your skin’s lipid barrier. If you haven’t heard this term before, pay attention. It is super important to understand this aspect of your skin so you know how to preserve it. The lipid barrier is a water-oil mixture that protects your skin by locking in moisture and providing protection from potential irritants. Not taking care of this lipid barrier can lead to so many skin issues – dry skin, irritation, increased signs of aging, the list keeps going. Protecting this barrier is essential in taking care of your skin, and niacinamide can help with this. 

Niacinamide has so many other benefits that it’s hard to dive into the sciency details of each one. It can aid in inflammation and redness, could reduce pore appearance, treat dark spots, and help with signs of aging. It’s important to note that although it works in many different ways, the main takeaway is this lipid barrier protection, which will in turn prevent a lot of other issues. 

(3 – Cleveland Clinic 2022)

The other great thing about Niacinamide is that it is very rare for people to experience negative side effects from the ingredient, and all skin types can benefit from adding it to their routine. Before purchasing a product marketed as having Niacinamide, check your other skincare products. This ingredient is very common, so it might already be in your routine!

AHA & BHA

Now, this is where we get into the more serious stuff. It might get a little sciency, but bear with me – these are ingredients you want to know about. AHA and BHA are both chemical exfoliants. So, instead of using a sugar scrub to get all your dead skin off, these ingredients enter deep into your skin and get out all that extra junk – sebum, excess oils, dead skin cells – to avoid your skin getting clogged up and giving you acne. Chemical exfoliants are awesome for acne, and they’re way less aggressive than physical exfoliants that could create microtears in your skin. 

Although they sound similar, these two ingredients are totally different, and you want to make sure you know the difference so you know what to look for in a product. 

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) – glycolic, lactic, citric, and malic acids. These acids are great for targeting both the deep layers of the skin and also the surface, where they can gently break bonds between skin cells, allowing the dead ones to shed off. They also have collagen-stimulating effects, and collagen is SO important for skin health. It is basically the structural bones of a house, with the house being your skin. If collagen crumples, so does the whole house. As we age, collagen slowly breaks down leading to fine lines, wrinkles, dryness, and an overall decrease in skin health. Since AHA is able to stimulate collagen production, the ingredient has been shown to provide amazing results for those with sun damage and wrinkles. 

BHA (beta hydroxy acid) – salicylic acid. The main difference between BHA and AHA is the position of one hydroxyl group. Okay, I know that sounds confusing, and you don’t need to know what that means. What you do need to know is that the position of this group makes BHA uniquely oil soluble, meaning it can be dissolved in oils. This property is SUPER important, because this means BHA is able to get into your pores with excess sebum and oil (the ones that cause pimples) and balance out the skin to prevent acne and enlarged pores. 

So, how do you know which one to use? Well, if you’re looking for more anti-aging benefits, or you have dry skin and are looking to treat surface-level issues, AHA might be the better option. BHA might be the move if you struggle with deeper skin issues like acne or oily skin and tend to be sensitive to more products (or if products tend to make your acne worse).

(4 – Noble 2024)

Whichever you choose it is really important to understand that any type of exfoliation (chemical or physical) will leave your skin super vulnerable. These ingredients work by stripping away layers of skin cells, and therefore you really want to make sure that you are protecting your skin with sunscreen after you use these products, or any time for that matter.

Retinol

This is perhaps the most researched and scientifically backed ingredient in skincare today, so let’s unpack why it’s so good. Retinol is a type of Vitamin A that works by increasing cell production. Essentially, old cells are flushed out so new (better) ones can take their place. Think of a closet clean out – in order to make room for your cute new clothes, you have to get rid of some old ones that you don’t need anymore. This is exactly how retinol works. It regenerates your cells so you can get rid of the ones that are causing acne or wrinkles to make room for fresh new ones that will make your skin younger and healthier. Retinol also has been proven to promote collagen production and exfoliate your skin in a similar way to the chemical exfoliators we discussed before. 

(5 – Cleveland Clinic 2022)

Like I said, retinol can provide amazing results and it is one of the most scientifically backed products out there, but it is also a very potent ingredient. Due to how it works, some people’s skin may be very irritated by retinol, especially when first starting out. 

My recommendation would be to start with a low-concentration retinol product. Use it twice a week, make sure to wear sunscreen, and see how your skin reacts. If you don’t notice any redness or irritation, try increasing how many days you use it or try a higher-concentration retinol product. The bottom line is, pay attention to your skin when using retinol and don’t continue using a product that’s causing serious problems. And please, if you listen to anything I say, wear sunscreen! Those anti-aging effects won’t matter if you’re continuously damaging your skin anyway.